Roth IRA Conversions

Do They Make Sense? The Answer May Surprise You

Converting a traditional IRA to a Roth is simple in concept. Once it’s converted, the money grows tax-free and comes out tax-free. You owe income tax on the full converted amount in the year you convert. Convert before age 59½ and the usual 10% early-withdrawal penalty is waived, as long as you wait five years and are past 59½ before touching the new Roth.

Should you actually do it? That depends on more variables than most people expect, which is why I run your specific numbers through dedicated conversion software rather than lean on a rule of thumb. As a general statement: if you expect to land in the same bracket or a lower one in retirement, converting usually doesn’t pencil out.

The Variable That Matters More Than Your Tax Bracket

The bigger question is where the money to pay the conversion tax comes from. Pay that bill out of the IRA itself and conversion makes a lot less sense. You’re shrinking the exact balance that was supposed to grow tax-free, while also paying tax on money you never actually got to keep. Pay it from money outside the IRA instead, so the full converted balance stays invested and growing tax-free, and the math looks considerably better.

The other big factor is direction. If your tax bracket is likely to be higher in retirement than it is right now, the case for converting today gets stronger. The earlier you convert, the more years that money has to compound tax-free, which is why younger clients converting ahead of an expected bracket increase tend to see the biggest relative payoff.

When Conversion Tends to Make Sense

Every case runs through actual numbers rather than a checklist, but a few patterns show up often enough to mention:

  • A lower-income year, a gap between jobs, a slower year in the business, or the early years of retirement before Social Security and pension income kick in, can drop you into a temporarily lower bracket, making that year a good window to convert part of your IRA.
  • Expecting tax rates to climb, whether because your own income is on the rise or you expect broader tax law changes.
  • Wanting to shrink future Required Minimum Distributions, which can otherwise push you into a higher bracket down the road or trigger IRMAA surcharges on your Medicare premiums. See the Medicare page for how those two connect.
  • Wanting to leave a more tax-efficient inheritance, since Roth funds generally reach beneficiaries without the income tax hit a traditional IRA carries.

When It Often Doesn’t

Conversion tends to make less sense when you expect a flat or lower bracket in retirement, when you’d have to pull the conversion tax from the IRA itself, or when you’re too close to needing the money for tax-free growth to make up for today’s tax bill. None of that rules conversion out completely. It just shifts the math, which is exactly why running your actual numbers beats following a general rule.

Partial Conversions Are an Option Too

You don’t have to convert the whole balance at once. A partial conversion, converting just enough each year to fill up your current bracket without spilling into the next one, is a common approach, especially for people converting over several years during a lower-income stretch like early retirement. It lets you capture the benefit of converting at a lower rate without taking one large tax hit in a single year.

How This Touches Medicare and Social Security

A Roth conversion doesn’t stop at this year’s tax bill. It can ripple into parts of your financial picture that aren’t always top of mind. Convert a large amount in one year and your reported income for that year goes up, which can push you into a higher Medicare IRMAA surcharge bracket roughly two years later, and can also change how much of your Social Security benefit gets taxed that same year. None of that makes conversion the wrong move. It just means the right amount to convert in any given year is rarely a tax-bracket question by itself. See the Medicare page for more on how IRMAA works.

What I Need From You to Actually Run the Numbers

A real conversion analysis needs more than a guess at your bracket. I typically need your current IRA and Roth balances, your other retirement income sources (Social Security, pensions, required distributions elsewhere), your state of residence (state tax treatment varies), and a sense of your retirement timeline. With that, I can model several scenarios, converting nothing, converting everything at once, converting a fixed amount over several years, and show you the actual projected outcome of each instead of relying on a generic rule.

The Short Version

Converting a traditional IRA to a Roth is an easy sell on the surface: pay tax now, let the money grow tax-free for years, take it out tax-free later. Once you actually run the numbers, conversion often makes little sense unless you expect a higher tax bracket in retirement, or you can pay the conversion tax with money from outside the IRA. I use dedicated conversion software so I can tell you within minutes whether it makes sense for your specific numbers, and if it does, whether a full or partial conversion fits better.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I convert my traditional IRA to a Roth?

It depends on more variables than a rule of thumb can capture, mainly whether you expect a higher or lower tax bracket in retirement, and whether you'd pay the conversion tax from the IRA itself or from other funds. As a general starting point, a Roth conversion tends to make less sense if you'll be in the same or lower bracket later, and more sense if you expect a higher one. I run the actual numbers for your specific situation instead of guessing.

Read the full Roth conversion breakdown →

Have a question about this, or ready to talk through your specific situation?